Reviews by our members

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  11 out of 23 members found this review helpful

  Mach_Solven

  2024-01-19

  Stay away for anyone who wants to have Lead batteries. It does not charge them daily as the manufacturers say, 62.4 V and it only gives 58.4 V. You will destroy your batteries as the electrolyte density will gradually decrease as they are not maintained as the Manufacturer says, meaning when the density drops below 1245, then they must be charged for 10 hours with 64.4 V to restore the density to 1240 to 1245. Every month, the level of the liquids and the density must be checked.
  LiFe Lithium Batteries are better in this matter... but they are sensitive, and if even one fails, then the whole rack needs to be replaced.
  P.S. I finally found the solution not to lose the batteries and I share it to help others.
  1) 2V x 24 Batteries = 48 V Bulk Volt = 2.6V/cell, Float Volt = 2.3 V/cell
  2) Monthly, you check the density with the Tool (https://www.skroutz.gr/s/40016122/AMiO-Metritis-Ilektrolyton-Mpatarias.html) It must be 1240-1245... If it approaches the red 1180... IMMEDIATELY Revival Charge = 2.7 V/cell x 24 = 64.8 V!!!
  BUT THIS INVERTER ONLY PROVIDES 58.4 V!!! I contacted the Company and they were trying to justify their mistake, shame on them.
  3) Fortunately, my Son reassured me and said, "Dad... just remove one array of batteries (2 batteries) so it becomes 22 Batteries x 2.7 V = 59.4 V, it's still less, son!"
  4) Dad, we will trick it with a code... you press the two arrows simultaneously and it asks for a code... and you enter 111... press Enter and select menu 030 with the arrows... press Enter and you can change the voltage values... So... while the batteries are 59.4 Volts... you write that they are 1 volt lower, meaning 58.4 volts!!! (note to help) = as you increase the values, the voltage decreases, and as you decrease the values, the voltage increases... it goes backwards... so we increase by one volt and it shows the batteries as 58.4 instead of 59.4...
  5) Another problem solved with this method = I have 2 Inverters in parallel for 10 Kilowatts... BUT one Inverter showed less voltage than the other and thus did not charge the batteries!!!
  So, with the method I mentioned earlier, I adjusted the voltage that each one should display separately so that both Inverters show the same and also less than the batteries so that they charge correctly.
  What can we do? We didn't know before we bought them... they were cheaper and had the possibility of parallel connection and we were convinced by the advertisements... Of course, I don't think Lithium batteries have such a problem because they communicate electronically among themselves (I don't know, maybe there is a problem there too).
  We chose Lead because they don't understand hardships and they are not dangerous, they don't break easily and if one breaks, you can easily replace it... while with Lithium... I saw what cars and others that use Lithium went through. I also saw a video by Kalogerakis and he is amazing and knowledgeable about solar

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• 5

  4 out of 4 members found this review helpful

  orizonclub

  2023-12-07

  Verified purchase

  very reliable machine.

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• 5

  38 out of 38 members found this review helpful

  campingcaravan73

  2023-03-06

  One of the best. It works both with and without batteries. You can connect it to the mains or a generator, and it's the only one that can take all the power from the photovoltaics if you need a lot of wattage, and if you need more at that moment, it can also take it from the grid or battery simultaneously...the others automatically switch to the grid once they pass 5000w, and of course you pay only for the grid. Simple connections, simple program, but if you want to be sure, get someone who knows what they're doing so you don't burn it. It has wifi so you can always see what's happening, how much the photovoltaics are producing, and analysis for each day, week, month, year, and statistics, as well as what each device is consuming. It also has certification for many different reasons. Additionally, if you have many large consumptions, you can install up to 6 of the same in parallel. I believe that 2 are enough for a house to power all devices together.

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• 5

  197 out of 197 members found this review helpful

  Pollux

  2022-11-26

  Very good all-in-one Inverter.
  This particular model belongs to the so-called hybrid off-grid systems, which means that it is fully independent of the DEI network and does not send electricity back to the grid. Instead, you connect it to a socket or to the house's panel and it can keep the devices running even when the supply from the photovoltaic panels or the battery is not sufficient.
  Initially, the inverter works even without the use of a battery. Therefore, if someone does not have the budget to purchase batteries due to cost, they can take advantage of sunny days and cover part of the required energy. The rest is covered by the local grid, so it is like helping to meet the energy demand through the PV panels and not drawing all the load from the grid.
  This specific inverter can handle a continuous load of 5kw, so it can support any device or devices simultaneously without exceeding 5kw. For this reason, if we want to have unlimited freedom in what we turn on and when without worrying that the relay will trip, we can install 2 such inverters in parallel (10kw total power), which would allow us to work simultaneously with a water heater (4kw), an oven (3.5kw), coffee makers (1.5kw), kettles (1.8kw), air conditioning (1.0kw), TV (0.2kw), etc., without any limitation (up to 10kw peak, of course).
  There are 4 priority modes in the way the inverter operates:
  1. Solar First (in this setting, the entire demand is covered by the PV panels, then by the battery or simultaneously in case of insufficient power from the PV panels, and finally by the grid if the battery fails to meet the demand. In this setting, the grid is activated when there is no PV power or battery reserve. So practically, when it gets dark, the grid is activated and the battery is not prioritized. This setting is good for those who do not have a battery.
  2. Utility First (in this setting, the entire demand is covered by the grid, and only if there is a shortage of grid power, the panels and the battery are activated. This setting is the most useless as the inverter functions like a simple UPS. This setting is usually used in cases where self-generation is not important, but we just want to have a backup system that protects us from power outages. It's like having a huge UPS.
  3. SBU Priority (solar/battery/utility): In this case, similar to the first setting, priority is given to the PV panels, then the battery is activated, and the grid is activated only when the battery is insufficient or falls below the discharge limits we have set. This setting is ideal for those who have a battery.
  4. SBU Priority (solar/utility/battery). Here, priority is given to the panels, but the battery is activated only if there is no PV availability and no grid. Here, the inverter also functions as a partial UPS. This setting is mainly used by those who want to keep their batteries as unchanged as possible by minimizing the use of charging/discharging (of course, here the question arises, why did we buy them if we don't use them)...
  Also, there is the possibility of connecting via WIFI and you can view the status of the photovoltaic installation through your mobile phone (ShinePhone application), as well as through a computer from the corresponding server (https://server.growatt.com/login).
  Alternatively, it can be connected via USB cable to a raspberry pi, and using a newly released software (called solar assistant), you can have the most updated and automated monitoring environment for all the inverter and battery parameters in real-time. This software retrieves information such as temperatures of the inverters/battery, and a bunch of other hidden parameters, allowing you to automate various tasks, etc.
  As for the installation of the inverter, it is very simple:
  Firstly, there are 2 ports for AC input/AC output.
  A. In the AC input, you connect the inverter to a socket (or directly to the panel) of the house in order to have the ability to supply power to the house from the grid as mentioned above (at night, for example, when you don't have solar power supply and you have run out of battery). As shown in the connection diagram, the AC inputs from each inverter are connected with a 4mm2 cable and end up in a 40A circuit breaker. The output of the circuit breaker is connected to the house panel with a 6mm2 cable.
  B. The AC output is the supply that comes out of the inverter and powers the devices in the house. Here, you run a cable (external line) and bring it inside the house to connect your devices. The inverter has a maximum output of 22A, so a 4mm2 three-core cable is sufficient. If you expand the system in the future by connecting a second inverter in parallel, you will need 44A, so it is advisable to use a 6mm2 cable from the beginning. In the diagram, the connection from each inverter (4mm2 cable each) ends in a 40A leakage relay and then connects to a distribution panel to supply your devices.
  C. Input for connection with the PV panels (+/-). In the diagram, the panels are connected in series, where the positive pole of the first panel is connected to the negative pole of the last panel in the central switch (PV switch) so that you can isolate the panels in case of control/maintenance, then they are connected to a surge protector (SPD) and a 15A circuit breaker (MCB). Be careful that the circuit breaker should be DC-rated and not AC-rated (the electric arc created by DC is much stronger compared to AC, which is why the construction of DC isolators is different).
  D. Input for battery connection (+/-). The inverter accepts AGM batteries (deep discharge), lithium batteries (LiFePO4) with integrated BMS, or lithium batteries without BMS. The cables coming from the battery should be at least 50mm2 to cover the total demand (in case of having 2 inverters in parallel, otherwise, 35mm2 cables are sufficient). Specifically, for a 5000W inverter at 48V, the current drawn from the battery reaches 105A DC current. Therefore, a fuse of at least 125-150A per inverter is required. Also, the battery should be at least 120Ah so that its maximum discharge is approximately 0.8C, otherwise, you risk burning the inverter. The manufacturer recommends a 200Ah battery for one inverter and 400Ah if two are connected in parallel. The fuse should be connected as close as possible to the battery.
  Each cable coming from the battery must end in a bus-bar (one to collect positive charges and one for negative charges). From the positive and negative pole bus-bars, cables leave either to the inverter or to other charge controllers (see diagram).
  Attention, the output from the bus-bars that will end in the battery needs to have a cable that can withstand the total load of all loads that end at the bus-bar (see diagram).
  The connection of the battery fuse mentioned above is made on the positive pole side, while on the negative pole side you will insert a switch to isolate the battery in case of maintenance.

  Informative, the inverter has a setting to charge the battery from the DEH network at specific times of the day (e.g. using night electricity) in case of cloudy weather.

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